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(http://3ders.org) Injection molding meets 3D printing in this 300 piece 3D printed injection molding machine!

injection-molding-meets-3d-printing-300-piece-3d-printed-molding-machine

ALL LINKS WILL OPEN IN NEW TABS!

“Is 3D printing a viable and affordable alternative to injection molding production?”

Original 3ders article on this debate..


 

 

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160331-injection-molding-meets-3d-printing-in-this-300-piece-3d-printed-injection-molding-machine.html

Awesome article pointed out to me by thews on IRC this morning. I thought it was worth sharing as this is a common debate in the reprap community as to which is quicker/better; 3d printing or injection molding?

Thank you thews for sharing this article with us! Have a great week everyone and thanks for stopping in!

 

-Terran Schatz

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Posted on

sE1X v1.5 VS. Fortus 450mc !!!!

DSC00563

Check out the amazing results below Chris Morewood was able to get with his sE1X v1.5(Running on a Smoothieboard 5xc). In the picture you’ll notice he points out a small flaw with the infill and the perimeters not quite touching in 2 spots but I think this is more a slicer config setting then the 3d printer/control board itself.

Thank you very much Chris ‘ChrisM37’ Morewood for this awesome comparison work and I look forward to seeing your future prints!!! Well done. ūüôā

THE COMPARISON PHOTOS:
https://goo.gl/j3EzBr

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Smoothieboards don’t live up to the hype…

42-tm_thickbox_default

When I first got my hands on a smoothieboard, I was ecstatic. I had heard such good things about them, and they where made by guys I used to work with at Trinitylabs with¬†Ezra Zygmuntowicz(..granted they only had to actually show up once or twice in the company’s life span..most where granted the privilege of working from home).¬†It started out fine…I had a issue here and there but nothing too major and for the first couple of month’s, I could usually get assistance in #smoothieware on IRC..but once I started having more serious issues, I suddenly was waiting longer and longer for replies…until eventually I just wouldn’t get one..and I used to work with these guys, not to mention I just bought 10 of their control boards and probably would have got 10 more if not for the bad experience with wolfman_jm in the #smoothieware channel.

Eventually I had tested all 10 of the boards…out of the 10, only 6 actually worked ok out of the box(some later on would develop issues such as D/C’ing randomly in the middle of prints among some other pretty serious issues..). When I addressed the smoothieboard owners about my customers having issues with the boards they sold me, I would just get told that it’s my problem now and that I had to pay for it, not them…this is just for starters…

Now that I have found a great alternative (the MKS sbase boards I now offer here at Mobious Robotics) I have been getting trolled/harassed daily by the smoothieboard guys. Such users as¬†Chris Cecil and Arthur Wolf (and now LoH, who I thought was a friend..)¬†have gone, at¬†great lengths, to¬†start rumors regarding my personal affairs and my reputation¬†on IRC in the reprap community…just goes to show what type of people they are if they will go to these length’s simply because I decided to use a different control board.

For months, I was the bigger person who had to walk away and defuse situations( such as ccecil bashing and bad mouthing¬† Ezra Zygmuntowicz who has recently passed away..and the person I’ve dedicated this company to..) but I can no longer stand by and not only allow them to keep harassing me and my business, but to continue to RIP OFF THE REPRAP COMMUNITY. These guys are taking 50$(Have been told in PM by smoothieboard worker)¬†control boards and selling them upwards of around 200$, even knowing they have issues and are not worth that much.

I spend a lot of my time giving back to the reprap community, I hold calibration hangouts on the weekends..I do 1 on 1’s with new comers to help assist them in getting their 3d printer going..and I help answer questions in the¬†#reprap channel..it is very bothersome that these guys don’t care enough to not only help out with the reprap community but instead of seeing a awesome, open source community that revolves around FFF and all the benefits to our society that come along with it, they just see $ signs…

Please keep in mind I have no reason or benefit to lie/make stuff up. I feel this is the only way they are going to realize that no matter how much they threaten me and try to muzzle me, I will always keep fighting to be treated equally.

I would highly suggest you consider other ALTERNATIVES if you are in the market for a control board, thank you for your time and happy printing!

 

-Terran D. Schatz

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Improvements made to several of the sE1X v1.5 printed parts..

New sE1X15 idler design

Here is the latest one to get a good make over..the Y idler for the Open Y carriage assembly. The old one was a bit confusing and flimsy compared to this new one. Granted we are still using 2 bolts to tighten the belt for the Y axis, it’s efficient and gets the job done quite well..

New sE1X15 idler design

P.S. – If you have the older version and you have it working for you then you don’t NEED to do this change(unless you feel like doing it).

New Y Idler T-Bracket design

 

A few other parts that have been modified/improved that will soon be added here and to the official BoM(along with vitamin counts):

  • Open Y carriage (along with vitamin counts)
  • Open X carriage

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My latest Project…PBC linear GST rail/car

PBC Rail Mount

I have recently been working on designing the parts needed to build a Linear Actuator out of just the PBC GST rail and slide.

Here you see the original idea I had came up with. I ended up tossing this design but you get the idea. The drive screw is a 5/16th threaded rod from Lowes, for like 10$ if I recall. This helps keep the overall price down, which is the goal here..that and AMAZINGLY PRECISE PRINTS.

GST mech linear rail assembly pic 2

Moving on, I eventually got a rough design done that worked well during prototyping. I’m really excited about this design because I think it might work better then even my Open X/Y designs.

PBC Mech-rail assembly(6 parts actually)

So here is the design I have been testing and getting great results. Couple more tweaks here n there and I think it will be ready to move to the next phase..PRINTING.

Thanks for checking this out and stay tuned for more, this month is going to be a fun one. ūüôā -papabur

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January-February Mobious Projects

y RAIL-CAR MOUNTING BRACK PIC

Mobious Robotics (LLC.)

Jan. News:

So, needless to say, January was a crazy month for me and it has taken quite a bit of work to keep the store going and my motivation up after everything thats happened in the last 6-8 weeks. Between hospital visits to the V.A., friends loosing their houses, packages of Mobious stock stolen off porches after being sent to wrong(old) address, and plenty of other things i was not counting on happening or expecting of/prepared for...
I'm still here though and orders are still going out, in fact we sold 3 sE1X kits for the month of January which isnt bad at all!! I suppose it always rains before a rainbow right? :D

Jan. Projects:

(( ( Dual Extrusion tool-head status: Working and ready.. ) ))

  ..I have not had much time to work on Solidworks but I do have a new project underway that I would like to share with everyone. In the last week or so I have been working on a design for a mechanical linear rail system using PBC Linear's GST( Glide Surface Technology). The following link is to PBC Linears website where it explains, in more detail, the advantages to this style of linear rail
[opens in new window]
. :: UGA Low Profile Uni-Guide Linear Slide ::

  I have decided to try and create a mechanical linear rail operation out of the PBC rail/slide, heres a assembly picture of what I've managed to get done so far. The idea is to run lead screws along the bottom side of the rail where the car(slide) will have a bracket on the bottom, the threaded rod will run through said bracket, moving the car/slide back and forth with the hope for very high precision.GST mech linear rail assembly pic 2

 I will post more pictures once I have it finished and ready for prototyping.

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Dry sanding Drill Rod

20151222_105834[1]

So I have had a few customers mention rust on their smooth rods, and this is common when dealing with Drill Rod.  Drill Rod is hardened and is also drawn to a precision tolerance. The composition of the alloy is a more important factor than any sort of plating. Typically hardened tool steel is a high carbon alloy with chromium and molybdenum as well as manganese and other elements.

 

Here is a solution I have found to work for me, below I will have a short pictured tutorial showing what type of sand paper to use and how it should look once your finished.

20151222_103548[1]

Sand Paper I used( as shown to the left) was P150. I’m not real familiar with automotive sand paper and their gauging system but I’m sure if you can find something even finer, you would get great results..

I recommend dry sanding with something AT LEAST this grade. I simply sat on the floor(Indian style) and slowly rotated the rod with one arm while the other was sanding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20151222_103535[1]After you have them sanded down, I recommend coating them in some lubricant and wiping any left over sanding debree ([PROTIP]A sugar free Rockstar may also help this procedure.)

 

 

 

 

 

You should end up with a nice finish like this here:
20151222_103643[1]

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