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Helpful expert advice for Slic3r!

SLICER LOGO

   Hey guys, my apologies I have been SWAMPED and have not had much time to actually sit down and give some helpful advice.

This week, I wanted to share with you a nifty little thing you can do with the latest Slic3r, called:

‘Variable Layer Height’.



Its basically just like it sounds.. this nifty little setting allows you to set variable layer heights throughout a single object!! Pretty friggin cool if you ask me..and I plan to definitely give this a test(will post pictures when done) here in the next week.

I can haz variable layer heights?

The variable layer height options are available by double clicking on a part name in the Plater window. This will cause a pop-up window to be displayed which contains two tabs. The first gives some information about the model, the second tab(fig. below) presents a table where each row defines a layer height for a particular range along the Z axis, given in millimeters…variable_layer_height_options_tab_2
PRO TIP:
An additional feature of the variable layers height option is that by entering a zero( 0 ) for a range( 0mm – 10mm) that part of the model will not be printed. This could come in handy if you wanted to do a quick cut on a uneven base or whatever other curve balls STL files can throw at you.
>>>>>>> Here is the official Slic3r page regarding this option and how to correctly make use of it. <<<<<<<

If you have any advice on this topic, feel free to leave a message. I hope this helps some of you out there caught in the chase of flawless prints..

Have a great week everyone and stay tuned in for Mobious Robotics updates, tutorials and more, until next time..stay classy Reprap.

-papabur 🙂

 

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How to address the issues..Magma hotend (3mm-0.4mm)

LoHs magma demo

The Magma hot-end has gotten a very bad rep because of poor performance most likely from the job being rushed to try and save TrinityLabs LLC. If you happen to be oen of the ones to end up with a Magma hot-end and want to try and get it to function properly, well here is a walk-through of what another member in the Reprap community put together for it.

DSC01001 The Magma hot-end, broke down into 4 parts.DSC00998 The Magma assembled.

The Walk-through documentation linkhttp://hastebin.com/aleyefumis.vhdl (Thank you LoH for doing the research, much appreciated.)

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Dry sanding Drill Rod

20151222_105834[1]

So I have had a few customers mention rust on their smooth rods, and this is common when dealing with Drill Rod.  Drill Rod is hardened and is also drawn to a precision tolerance. The composition of the alloy is a more important factor than any sort of plating. Typically hardened tool steel is a high carbon alloy with chromium and molybdenum as well as manganese and other elements.

 

Here is a solution I have found to work for me, below I will have a short pictured tutorial showing what type of sand paper to use and how it should look once your finished.

20151222_103548[1]

Sand Paper I used( as shown to the left) was P150. I’m not real familiar with automotive sand paper and their gauging system but I’m sure if you can find something even finer, you would get great results..

I recommend dry sanding with something AT LEAST this grade. I simply sat on the floor(Indian style) and slowly rotated the rod with one arm while the other was sanding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20151222_103535[1]After you have them sanded down, I recommend coating them in some lubricant and wiping any left over sanding debree ([PROTIP]A sugar free Rockstar may also help this procedure.)

 

 

 

 

 

You should end up with a nice finish like this here:
20151222_103643[1]

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Dual Extrusion goodness…Colorprint – by Prusa Jr.

prusa logo

So I was recently informed of this awesome app for dual extruding with mult. colors called ‘Colorprint’. This is a very awesome app that makes it easy for you to pick and choose where yo uwant color on your .gcode files.

Download Colorprint here (new window)

 

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Tutorial updates – written & video

bad_circles

Here soon, with the help of LoneTengu and hikozaru, the tutorials will be improved upon/simplified and crucial updates (which are very much need) will be made to both tutorials. Lonetengu has added a simplier method for explaining t-slot alignment along with the over all layout of the written tutorial.

Over the next couple of days I will be focusing most of my attention to the tutorials because they are just a drastic part of offering kits(Where would Ikea of gotten if they didnt have proper tutorials?)!  I am in the process of getting the parts ready to assemble another sE1X(which I will be offering for sale!) strictly for the sake of the tutorials! Expect a complete revamp over the next week.

 

Thank you hikozaru and LoneTengu for the contributions, very much appreciated!

-papabur

 

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sE1X tames the beast known as Polycarbonate!

DSC00410

So after much trial and error, we finally found what works for adhesion when printing PC! 😀

So with the heated bed set to 120c, some kapton tape roughed up with sandpaper, and a thin layer of ABS juice, we’ve managed to get great adhesion when printing the beast, Polycarbonate and will hopefully be able to start offering polycarbonate printed parts with our sE1X kits!

Hotend: Hexagon AO

Temp: 285c (bed@120c)

Speed: 40mm/s

DSC00410 DSC00412

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